This practical guide takes readers to the best trails found in the Great Trinity Forest, all within easy reach of Downtown Dallas. Destinations include less traveled, low-traffic areas for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding in the City of Dallas. Joppa Preserve, McCommas Bluff Preserve, Trinity River Wetlands, Texas Horse Park, Dallas Trinity Paddling Trail, Lower White Rock Creek, Sycamore Dixon, Texas Buckeye Trail, Dallas Whitewater Wave, Levee Trails, Rochester Park and more.
Sunday, December 29, 2013
Thursday, December 26, 2013
The Wild Palm Trees Of Dallas County -- Relics From The Last Ice Age?
Sabal Minor Palms in Dallas County Texas |
It is most likely one of the farthest northwestern natural palm tree colonies in North America. Perhaps a remnant holdout of a long ago time when glaciers covered much of the continent and the area known as Dallas County was a wet swamp of a place. Frankly, little is understood about the hows and the whys of the robust palm groves that flourish in a literally unnamed place in North Texas. At one time palms covered Dallas forests, a time before man was even on the continent.
Known to only a handful of people, a Trinity River canoe guide, a handful of amateur botanically minded and a few random folks, the place sits unvisited and undisturbed a year or more at a time. Dallas resident and Master Naturalist Jim Flood told me of the place more than a year ago. It can be so hard to reach, so difficult to visit that it took a year just for the place to dry enough to explore.
I would say that the closely guarded secret of this place will most likely remain so, to deter plant poachers and the curious who might trample such a spot. The trunks of the palms are under the surface and cannot be seen except in rare cases which also makes transplant impossible.
Some ten years ago or more, the Dallas Morning News ran a story about the native palms in Dallas County. The focus was the 260 acre Dallas County Preserve known as Palmetto Alligator Slough on Beltline Road. Now called the Mary Phinney Wetlands, named for the long serving Administrator of the County’s Trail and Preserve Program, Mary Phinney. The preserve there skirts the old Trinity River channel know known as Parson's Slough and stays fairly damp year round. That preserve is unfortunately closed to public access and from Beltline appears to be only visited by fisherman.
It has been reported that those palmetto palms at the Mary Phinney Wetlands preserve, Sabal minor were the northernmost in the state. It might be true that the overall number of palms there might be the largest colony in Dallas County but they are not the furthest north.
The big woods, fanning out in search of Ice Age plants |
A Place Without A Name
It has no name other than that. No address. No roads lead here. No signs. Warren Angus Ferris, the first surveyor of what is now Dallas County called this place the Caddo Tract. At left, in his own handwriting, Warren Angus Ferris describes the league in which the Caddo Tract sits. Why he called the place "The Caddo Tract" is terminology lost to modern Dallasites but offers a tantalizing suggestion of who once lived here before the pioneers.
In the 1830s Warren Ferris traveled to Texas where he became the official surveyor for Nacogdoches County. In 1839 Ferris surveyed at the Three Forks of the Trinity River in today's Dallas County. Ferris entered and surveyed this land prior to John Neely Bryan, the commonly accepted founder of Dallas. As payment for his surveying services, Ferris was granted land holdings in the county.
Ferris was a trapper and fur trader in the Rocky Mountains during the early 1830s. In 1834, Ferris acted as a clerk for the American Fur Company in a journey to the mountains of western Wyoming. Out of curiosity, Ferris found Indian guides and made a side journey into what is today Yellowstone National Park. In a journal that he kept during that time, later published as Life in the Rocky Mountains, Ferris gave one of the first descriptions of Native Americans, geysers like Old Faithful and complex interactions of the everyday mountain man life.
Texas rivers and creeks in mature valleys like the Trinity frequently have extensive marshes and swamps along their sides. Floodplains elevated only a few feet above river level, abandoned river channels, and oxbows may have standing or sluggishly flowing water for appreciable parts of the year and thus support swamps and marshes.
A swamp may feature several elevated areas of dry land known as hummocks. Seen in the picture above in the right side background is a hummock where willow and small oaks grow above the near permanent swamp conditions.
Different species of trees that grow in temporary swamps differ considerably in their resistance to submersion and lack of oxygen. This is an issue during the submersion period but is not a problem in drier periods, at least in the shallow layers of the soil.
In American swamps, willows will survive or even thrive on land immersed for periods as long as one month, whereas some oaks and pecan species survive only about two weeks. Cottonwood begins to show the effects of submergence after only two days and survives only one week.
Up a tree looking for a better vantage point across a large swamp where the water seems endless |
Topography and water supply are the two most important features in determining the distribution of freshwater swamps. The nature of soils and bedrock is of importance in determining the drainage in this region, but wetlands may exist locally on any base from sands to impervious rock. The flow of water through wetlands is slow because of low elevation gradients and slow decay effects of the vegetation. Dead plant matter settles rather than being washed away. The slow replacement and lack of turbulence in the water result in a low rate of oxygen supply.
A dwarf palmetto partially submerged under a carpet of fallen leaves |
The majority of the palms sit not so much in the permanently wet swamp areas but on a slight incline transitional area where the sandy Trinity Terrace soils meet that of the darker bottomland alluvial soils. Here is where the larger mast bearing trees like oaks and pecans stop and the smaller trees like ash and cottonwood take over.
Sabal minor growing on a slope populated by mountain cedar trees |
Some of the larger plants actually sit above the grade of the swamp in a transition zone or even higher. A large number sit mixed in with heavy stands of mountain cedar on an escarpment that never would see flood water.
The Sabal minor, the Dwarf Palmetto, is an understory palm generally occurring in low-lying, swampy habitats. Sabal minor occurs from Oklahoma( far southeastern most McCurtain County in farthest Southeast Oklahoma) and Texas eastward to Florida and North Carolina. It is a wetland species that thrives in swamps, floodplains and backwater regions of the southeast where the land is often inundated by prolonged periods of water.
Sabal Arecaceae constitutes sixteen species of palms that are distributed in the eastern woodlands and coastal plains of the Southeastern United States. Spanish explorers who landed on what is now the Gulf coasts of the United States immediately noticed the “palmito” or little palms growing everywhere. The “palmetto” name has since been applied in common names to these small palms.
The description of the genus Sabal by French citizen and botanist Michel Adanson in 1763 led to later reclassification of taxa previously placed in the Old World. Sabal species, part of the New World Thatch Palm group, have dispersed over long distances and are adapted to a wide range of conditions around the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean basin.
Bill Holston next to a Sabal Minor Dwarf Palmetto |
Sabal minor berries containing seed |
Scott Hudson examing seeds of a Sabal minor. Scott who in addition to being a great hiker is also the Director of Environmental Services for the city of Carrollton |
Sabal palms can be separated from all other genera of fan palms by three criteria:
-costapalmate fronds or leaves. A costapalmate leaf has a defined midrib called a costa unlike the typical palmate leaf, but the leaflets are arranged radially.
-unarmed petioles. That means they are smooth, have no spines or thorns anywhere on the palm
- a split leaf base where fronds attach to the stem.
The bottomlands to the left and the slowly transitioning higher ground to the right |
Leaf segments are only joined a short distance near the base. Sabal Minor is typically as an understory species in deciduous hardwood bottomland woods.
A dwarf palmetto growing among the twisted branches of a bois d'arc tree, Dallas, Texas |
The Bois 'd Arc sports large fleshy fruit that serves the function of seed dispersal by means of its consumption by large animals. One recent hypothesis is that the Osage orange fruit was eaten by animals like the Giant Ground Sloth that became extinct shortly after the first human settlement of North America. Other extinct Pleistocene megafauna, such as the mammoth and mastodon may have fed on the fruit and aided in seed dispersal
Horse Apple |
Red Tailed Hawk perched in a Bois d' Arc, Trinity River, Dallas Texas |
Ephemeral swamp. One of the rare and unexpected sights in a place so many think is merely a flat, Blackland Prairie. The Native Americans and even the first explorers of the Texas Republic knew it well. Somewhere between then and now we forgot about it.
Monday, December 9, 2013
Great Trinity Forest In Deep Freeze -- Winter Forecasting With Persimmons
Thick ice fog gathers at dawn along the Lower Chain of Wetlands |
Union Pacific locomotive moving a load across the frozen Trinity River Bottoms in the Lower Chain of Wetlands |
Native Persimmon Seeds as a Winter Weather Forecast Tool Diospyros virginiana
Fruit of the Persimmon in the Great Trinity Forest Diospyros virginiana |
Growing wild across the Eastern half of Texas, the persimmon is an unassuming fruit tree. A "gatherer of possums" the Indians called them and tradition has it, a very old weather predictor.
The fruit appears as almost a round berry, about 1/2- to 1 inch in diameter. At first, the fruit is green. It changes to an amber color as it ripens and, then, in October, the ripe fruit often has a purplish tinge. A persimmon is very astringent before ripening. The skin will be wrinkled when the persimmon is ripe.
During the Civil War, Confederate soldiers boiled persimmon seeds to use as a substitute for coffee and used the seeds for uniform buttons. The American Indians made a bread from the persimmon fruit, which was eaten to stop dysentery. Although the common persimmon fruit never became popular with humans, it is a favorite of wildlife and is eaten by birds, especially crows, as well as wild hogs, squirrels, fox, raccoons, skunks, deer and, above all, the possum.
The astringent content of the persimmon is also so high, if you taste one, your mouth might be puckered up for a week. The first hard freezes change all that. The astringent alum is replaced with sugar and the texture of the fruit turns pulpy. The yellow coloring the fruit is gone and the color goes to a rich orange-red.
According to pioneer legend, persimmon seeds can be used to predict the severity of winter weather. When cut into two pieces, the persimmon seed will display on of three symbols. A knife shape will indicate a cold icy winter (where wind will cut through you like a knife). A fork shape indicates a mild winter. A spoon shape stands for a shovel to dig out the snow.
Two different persimmon seeds both showing "spoon" |
After collecting a dozen seeds from 4 fruits and two different trees a mile apart, the verdict is 100% spoon. The seeds are cut open along the natural seam of the seed which is not much larger than that of a pumpkin.
The native range of the Persimmon is along the Virginias, Carolinas, Appalachians and Ozarks. Higher altitudes and areas prone to more fickle winter weather than Texas for sure.
The "spoon" tells us that Dallas would be prone to seeing snow this winter versus a mild winter. Our weather is pretty warm compared to other parts of the fruit tree's range and might not be a good predictor. Interesting to see though. They are tasty too, like dates.
Big Spring --Nothing else like it in Dallas
Condensation rising from Big Spring in the Great Trinity Forest |
Big Spring kicking out an impressive cloud of wispy fog and condensation from the head of the source |
The temperature of the water in Big Spring is constant year round in the upper 60s. With an air temperature in the low 20s and a windless sunrise, the spring breathes as if it were alive. The consistent water temperature and 23-25 gallons per minute of flow allow for the crayfish, mosquitofish and water plants to thrive all year long in the spring. When the areas around the spring freeze solid, the micro-climate cocoons the flora and fauna here.
Heavy frosted leaves near the spring created by the rolling fog of the warm water |
Frozen leaves of a Cedar Elm sapling |
Frozen Chinese Tallow Berries |
While many native trees flourish here so do invasive species. One such plant is a tree called the Chinese Tallow. Known as popcorn tree, chicken tree, or the Florida aspen, it is a tree that grows in well drained uplands and bottom lands, along lakeshores and on small islands. It is often used as an ornamental plant because it grows quickly and turns yellow to red in the fall. It grows to about 20 feet in height.
Used for twenty centuries, the Chinese Tallow Tree is native to southern China along the Yantgtze River Valley. It was introduced into the North America by Benjamin Franklin in 1772. He forwarded some seeds he got from what is now Vietnam and sent them to Mr. Noble Wimberly Jones, a horticultural enthusiast and gentleman farmer in Georgia.The introduction of the plant was hoped to spur a candle and soap industry in the United States.
Chinese tallow can invade a variety of habitats from sun to shade. The plant produces many thousands of seeds that may be carried by birds, and are easily spread. It may also live for weeks floating in water, and so can be dispersed great distances. It may also grow back from the stump or roots. Once established, it can crowd-out native species. They are also very difficult to kill. Also, the milky sap of the plant causes skin irritation. The leaves and fruit are toxic to cattle and cause nausea and vomiting in humans.
The photo above exemplifies the Pemberton family's ties to the land and stewardship of Big Spring. For decades, for generations, they have enjoyed Big Spring, opened their farm to guests and given detailed tours of the environs. Above, in the left split, a younger Billy Ray Pemberton leans on the Black Walnut at Big Spring. Fast forward decades you still find the same man leaning on the same tree, the exact same way he always had. The 2013 photo of adult mountain bikers at right are the same age as the children in the photo to the left. Hard to say many places in Dallas look the same as they always have.
White Winged Dove in an icicle laden tallow tree |
White-winged Dove are another recent addition to North Texas. Not considered an invasive species like the tallow tree, they have slowly but surely extended their range north from the deserts of Mexico and the Lower Rio Grande Valley. The White-winged Dove is a bird whose range is largely south of the border through Mexico and Central America into western Panama. Seeing them in Dallas during an ice storm shows how out of place these subtropical birds are. Birds who struggle when the temperature drops below freezing.
The White-winged Doves are slightly larger and heavier than the similar Mourning Doves. Their rounded-off tail, and overall size, gives them a resemblance to a pigeon. White-wings are basically gray birds that can be told from Mourning Doves by their large white patches on the wings and broad white corners on their tails.
When perched, the white patches show as a white border along the folded wings. At close range you can see a featherless bright blue eye patch and yellow-orange to red-orange eyes.The head and nape of the neck are brownish with crowns of purple or red-purple. Iridescent flecks of gold, green and purple adorn the sides of the neck. The bright red legs and feet add a contrast to the basic gray, white and brown of the bird. The males and females are very alike. The slightly smaller females tend to have less purple and less iridescence.
White Winged Dove in an ice glazed Bur Oak |
A frozen Bryan's Slough in the Great Trinity Forest |
Mallards in the ice |
Under a thick sheet of ice, a beaver whittled willow branch |
The beaver ponds down here hold water during times of summer drought and during the wet winter fan the waters of the slough out in every direction. In the past I have undone the work of a small section of a beaver dam, returning the next day to find it not only rebuilt but more fortified than before.
Frozen swamp near the confluence of White Rock Creek and Oak Creek in the Great Trinity Forest |
The slough as it travels further away from Big Spring becomes a water body vastly different than many would think. Not evidenced on maps or aerial imagery the slough takes the shape of a deep ravine with many turns, double backed twists and thick briar thickets.
The raft strewn gullies of lower Bryan's Slough, southwest of Big Spring near the mouth of White Rock Creek |
The curse of violent flash flooding is laid bare around here. The large tree trunks and rafted limb debris that make crossing the slough difficult.
Here far away from where most would dare venture the deep woods of the Trinity River exist. Ones that scare many adults away for fear of what they might find. The rustle of the big black boar that haunts this place. The man sized fist of the coyotes. The loud calls of the raptors like the Red-Shouldered Hawk are all that pierce the quiet down here.
Red Shouldered Hawk in a frozen Cottonwood tree |
The Red-Shouldered Hawk Buteo lineatus is a crow-sized soaring hawk. The adults are strikingly plumed, with rufous (brownish red) shoulder patches and a barred breast. Their upper wing coverts form the “red shoulders” evident on this species. The flight feathers of adults are barred black and white and show a white crescent-shaped window across the primaries, which is visible in flight. The underparts, which show white barring, often exhibit thin, dark streaks on the chest. The head and back are dark brown. The black tail is crossed by several narrow white bands. Although females average slightly larger than males, plumage is similar for both male and female. The call of the red-shouldered hawk is a series of nasal drawn-out “ aahhh ” cries.
Mature wet woods such as hardwood swamps and riparian forests typify red- shouldered hawk breeding habitat. Nesting territories, which occur in mixed woodlands, are typically located within remote and extensive old growth forests containing standing water. Consequently, breeding barred owls ( Strix varia ) and Cooper’s hawks.
Barred Owl December 2013 |
The birds feed on a variety of small animals including mice, rats and squirrels. Distributed widely in the Eastern half of Texas they prefer large mature woodlands, marshes and stands of old growth trees. The larger trees are important to the Barred Owl as the old voids in the trunks provide nesting sites for their offspring. The Barred Owl will often take over old Red Shouldered Hawk nests as their own.
Eastern Bluebird on a frozen sycamore branch |
This situation changed in the late nineteenth century with the introduction of the European starling and the English house sparrow which adversely affected the native Eastern Bluebird population. Numbers dropped and only now are starting to see a large increase here in Texas.
Frozen willow branches |
Black Crowned Night Heron trying to balance on a frozen tallow tree |
Black Crowned Night Heron perched in frozen stiff cattails |
Year after year, the Black Crowned Night Herons come back to this spot. The shallow water mere inches deep extends like a shallow pool for many acres through a highly populated area of cattails, grasses and old logs.
The arrival of the Black Crowned Night Herons seems to coincide with the first hard freezes of the year that kill off many of the herons terrestrial prey. Crickets, grasshoppers and worms become non-existent after the freeze and the birds shift their hunting efforts to small fish in the shallow water.
Frozen leaves of a native Sweet Gum Tree Liquidambar styraciflua |
One unexpected sight is that of the Black Crowned Heron's distant cousin, the Yellow Crowned Night Heron. Birds of the big swamps in southeastern United States they are a somewhat infrequent sight in Dallas. Like the White-winged Dove, seeing Yellow Crowned Night Herons in Dallas with the onset of winter is very odd.
Yellow Crowned Night Heron focused on fish in a swampy pool some 10 feet below the frozen willow used as a perch |
The Yellow-Crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea is a migratory bird that traditionally lives along the Trinity River in Texas during the summer months. Customarily during the winter, it can be found as far south as South America, but can be found almost anywhere along the Gulf and Atlantic Coast year round. Unlike other night heron species, the yellow-crowned forages both late in the day and night. It forages much like other herons by wading through water waiting for its prey to come within striking distance.
The prey of a Yellow Crowned Night Heron normally consists of fish, frogs, grasshoppers, and occasionally snakes, but its primary diet is crustaceans like crayfish.
Yellow Crowned Night Herons are birds of the Old South and seeing one among the ice encrusted tree limbs of a willow has one wondering how cold a bird like this must be in 18 degree temperatures. If a bird ever looked cold, this one wins.
The Yellow Crowned Night Heron is a common wetland bird in the eastern half of Texas, but is listed as threatened in many of the states within its northeastern range. Loss of wetland habitat has had the greatest impact on this species. Continued conservation of wetland areas and development of new areas can help preserve the viewing of this species for many generations to come.
Yellow Rumped Warbler in a driving sleet storm, Great Trinity Forest, Dallas Texas |
Yellow Rumped Warbler eating the berry of a Mountain Cedar(juniper) |
Now known as the Yellow-rumped Warbler Setophaga coronata it is one of the most common warblers in North America and the only warbler to regularly winter in Texas. It generally arrives in the state in late September and departs by mid-May. A couple of other warblers that migrate through the state have yellow rumps, but none of those rumps are as conspicuous.
This distinctive yellow rump-patch has led bird-minded folk to give it the affectionate name "butter-butt". The broad breeding range of this bird stretches from Alaska south to Guatemala and east to the northeastern United States. It is often abundant in winter in the southern United States, and travels as far as Mexico and the western Caribbean. In Texas, it is commonly found in foraging flocks during winter months eating all from the same berry laden shrubs.
There are actually four variations of the species. Geographically separated from one another the various forms probably diverged when the eastern and western populations were separated in the last ice age.
Red-Bellied Woodpecker on a pecan tree |
Red-bellied woodpeckers are adaptable to a variety of forested habitats. Though they are most commonly associated with mature hardwood forests, they also thrive in heavily timbered bottomlands, swampy woods, and riparian forests.
Two characteristics that distinguish red-bellied woodpeckers from other woodpeckers and often misidentified Sapsuckers native to Texas are the black and white zebra pattern on their backs, and the red belly.
A frozen Red Oak |
Red is traditionally a common theme on the Trinity River in December when the Red Oaks finally turn a dark red wine color. Many look forward to the lingering color the oaks afford. This year with the heavy ice many of those red leaves will most likely fall prematurely, snubbing those looking for winter color. The heavy cold wet weather is great for next years wildflower crop. If the wet weather continues it could be a banner year.